瑞典「世界盡頭餐廳」年底關閉!歸還米其林二星 主廚:醒來不想上班

▲▼米其林二星級餐廳Fäviken主廚尼爾森(Magnus Nilsson)。(圖/取自Fäviken)

▲Fäviken主廚尼爾森年僅35歲。(圖/取自Fäviken)

記者張方瑀/綜合報導

位於瑞典首都斯德哥爾摩北方約600公里處的米其林二星級餐廳Fäviken,被稱作「世界盡頭的餐廳」,更是世界最佳餐廳榜單常客。不過現年35歲的傳奇主廚尼爾森(Magnus Nilsson)卻突然宣布,Fäviken只會營業到今年底,且全數訂位皆已客滿。尼爾森表示,「我不想撒謊,但我真的有點累了。」

Fäviken開業11年以來,尼爾森全部的心力都在這間餐廳,在此期間,Fäviken不僅獲得米其林二星的肯定,他的烹飪書「Fäviken」被評為瑞典2013年的「年度最佳烹飪書」。名氣大增的尼爾森也參與了Netflix 原創《主廚的餐桌》紀錄片,對料理充滿熱情的他,致力尋找最新鮮的當季食材,例如Fäviken有70%食材來自餐廳外的廣闊冰原,其他20%則是產地直銷,所有員工有一半的上班時間都在尋找食材。

這些年尼爾森不禁自問,「Fäviken的初衷是什麼?」儘管Fäviken經常被評為全球最佳餐廳,但他卻逐漸看不清目標,「我第一次醒来,不想去上班。」尼爾森強調,並不是因為不愛這間餐廳而離開,而是他真的受夠了,他想去做做別的事。今年12月14日後,他會花更多時間與家人相處,「不論是釣魚、種花還是健身,反正我身體與精神上都不會工作。」未來也考慮將Fäviken交給優秀的員工繼續營業。

事實上,尼爾森也不是第一個放棄米其林頭銜的廚師。台灣旅外名廚江振誠,他在新加坡所經營的Restaurant ANDRE餐廳連二年摘下米其林二星,但他2017年10月在餐廳官網上宣布,宣布結束餐廳營業並歸還米其林二星,並回台傳承經驗。

位於法國的Le Suquet餐廳已經連續18年拿到米其林三星,不過每年要維持米其林三星評等的巨大壓力之下,Le Suquet主廚布拉斯(Sebastien Bras)對於這樣的折磨已經無法承受,2017年要求退出米其林指南。

 
 
 
 
在 Instagram 查看這則貼文
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Fäviken to close at the end of the year. Dear Friends, With this note I would like to tell you that this coming season will be my last at Fäviken Magasinet. I have been the chef here for more than ten years now and it has been amazing. Unusually early in my career I was presented with the opportunity to develop and operate an ambitious restaurant in a way that most chefs can only dream about. I have had the chance to work alongside the best team I could have wished for, cooking for the most fantastic guests (mostly). Fäviken has been a project where I have enjoyed tremendous support from the Brummer family who are Fäviken’s owners and my business partners. I have been allowed to grow and develop, and I have enjoyed complete creative freedom. It has been a hard decision, but one that I believe is the right one. The evening of the 14th of December 2019 will be my last. I wanted to share this news now when the coming season is already fully booked, as to not motivate guests to come here just because of the news itself. I hope that my last half-year at Fäviken is going to be business as usual, and that the people come here to enjoy Fäviken and what we have to offer, not because it will end soon, but because it is a magnificent restaurant experience right now. We have truly never been better. When I am done here I am going to spend time with my family, reflect, fish, garden, write, rest and get fit, both physically and mentally. I am not going to lie, I am a little bit tired after all this time pushing the development of the restaurant forward. I would like to thank you all for coming here to work, eat, share, and to be a part of what Fäviken has been and will be for a while longer. I have given one interview on this matter, (with the LA Times) to provide a little bit more depth. For those who are interested, link in bio. To my friends out there working in media: I want to spend my last half-year at Fäviken enjoying my work in the restaurant, not talking about what has been and what is coming. I am very sorry for not making myself available for any more interviews at this time. I hope you understand. Thank you all! Magnus Nilsson

Magnus Nilsson(@magnusfaviken)分享的貼文 於 張貼

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